Jason Smith, a Raleigh native whose culinary career has taken him to the far ends of the Earth ( not all by train), from Magnolia Grill in Durham to a cafeteria at a research station in Antarctica to Union Square Cafe and Gramercy Tavern in New York to Peninsula Grill in Charleston. Smith's return home to open his own restaurant in Raleigh is the realization of a long-cherished dream.

The chef puts a premium on locally grown produce and seafood from Carolina waters, but the scope of his inspiration is as far-reaching as his travels. Well, almost -- the closest the menu comes to showing any Antarctic influence is an iceberg wedge with buttermilk blue cheese dressing. Southern and Lowcountry accents are abundantly evident in the likes of cornmeal-crusted catfish with smoked corn relish, braised short ribs with creamy grits, and sauteed snapper with a ragout of black-eyed peas, artichokes and roasted tomatoes. There's an occasional Mediterranean note in such offerings as a grilled pork chop with cannellini bean stew, and Parmesan souffle with haricot vert, arugula and pepper relish. One section of the menu is dedicated to wood-grilled steaks and fresh fish, a technique Smith mastered at Gramercy Tavern.